Log in or Sign up. What is your monotub fruiting strategy? I know that everyone has their own pet procedures for success, and was hoping to get some opinions.
I've read that some people remove the polyfill entirely from one hole until pins are seen and then replace it loosely. Others loosen all polyfill but never actually remove it. I went with the second route and manually fanned the tub twice per day. Results were good, but i am always looking to learn and improve. Any difference in technique for PE vs. Last edited: Oct 21, PE-n-hedOct 21, Victor Haze likes this. Guess I'll go ahead and pull one polyfill out today and try to initiate pinning.
Joined: Jan 1, Messages: An interesting quote I read on the shroomery I don't use holes in my tubs anymore. I leave the lid cracked about a half an inch during the day, and close it up at night.
When I say I "leave the lid cracked" I mean that instead of putting the lid on the tub so it's closed, I move the lid off center by about a half an inch.
The way my lighting is set up, is the bulb above each tub is about 6 inches away. This creates warmer air inside the tub than outside the tub, which in turn creates convection currents within the tub. So during the day it gets, more or less, constant fresh air while still maintaining a very high RH RH is controlled by the size of the gap created by having the lid offcenter I've stopped modifying my tubs for a couple of reasons, the first being that once I've modified them with holes and whatever else, they become kind of single purpose, in that I can't really use them as regular tubs anymore for things like storage.
Second, they look weird as hell and are hard to explain to people asking why I've got tubs with holes all over the place. Third, I've found great success not putting holes in them Fourth, moving a lid back and forth is a lot easier than messing with "polyfill density". What I mean is, it's hard to accurately measure from one grow to the next "how dense the polyfill was" the last time when you had a good grow. The offcenter lid method is easily measurable I may try this, seems a lot easier than most methods.
Joined: Jun 13, Messages: Location: islandia. Joined: May 22, Messages: Location: Earth.Sign up for our mailing list and be the first to know about promotions, events, and new product releases. Cubensis but can also be used to grow edible species of manure loving Agaricus or Shaggy Mane mushroom Coprinus comatus.
Switch out that bulk substrate from manure based to hardwood based wood chips and you can also grow oyster mushrooms of the Pleurotus family, Wine Caps, and Namekos. The potential for innovating and creating new mushroom growing techniques utilizing monotubs is endless.
Grain spawn is sterilized grain that has been fully colonized with mushroom mycelium. It's the seed equivalent for mushroom growers.
There are a number of different options for procuring mushroom grain spawn. If you are growing any common edible species of mushroom you can buy fully colonized grain spawnjust keep in mind that the substrate you'll put into your monotub will change depending on the species you choose. You'll need one of these sterilized grain bags with an injection port we offer bulk pricing for both Boomr Bags and Injection Port Bags!
The bags are filled with sterilized and hydrated millet. The bags themselves have a self-healing injection port meant to work in tandem with a spore or culture syringe. Hallucinogenic mushroom spores themselves are illegal in a number of U. S states including the state of California. Be aware of the legality in your place or residence!
Edible mushroom cultures in liquid form used to grow oyster mushrooms, nameko, or wine caps can be bought from a wide variety of sites. North Spore doesn't currently produce them, though we do sell colonized grain spawn of those fully legal and edible species! To use the injection port grain bags simply inject 2. Make sure to sterilize your hands, the syringe needle, injection port bag, and inoculation surface with rubbing alcohol. Wear latex gloves. Make sure to inspect the bag for any micro tears or contamination.
Any tear in the bag will compromise its sterility.
If you've ordered your sterilized grain bag online, it is best practice to wait one or two weeks before injecting it to make sure that it wasn't damaged in transit. If it contaminates usually green mold will start growing in damaged bags discard the bag and contact North Spore for a replacement.
Allow your bag to colonize in a cool location out of direct sunlight. Temperature for incubation shouldn't exceed 75 degrees F or dip below 55 degrees. After a couple weeks or so you should start to see mycelium growing on the grain. You'll notice the white mycelium growing outward from the injection point. When it has grown three to four inches you should, without opening the bag, carefully break up the colonized grain and mix it into the uncolonized grain.
This will dramatically speed up the colonization process. When the bag is completely white with mycelium your spawn is ready to use. This may take a couple weeks to a month or more depending on the species and vigor of your culture.
Your bulk substrate formulation will depend greatly on what species of mushroom you are growing in your tubs. If you are growing edible wood loving species you'll need to track down wood chips that are made up of mostly hardwood species such as oak or maple wood. If you are growing manure loving species continue reading! We recommend our Boomr Bag product for any manure loving species. It's easy to use, already cooked and sterilized, and is a formulation perfected over many years of Agaricus trials.
It will save you the hassle of tracking down your own ingredients and cooking horse poo at homeA monotub [i] is a simple but effective fruiting chamber for cultivating mushrooms. Monotub tek was developed by growers of illegal hallucinogenic mushrooms. Those species grow well in composted horse manure mixes, so that is the substrate typically used in monotubs. Alternatively, a monotub can be filled with other substrates—several oyster mushroom species will grow well in monotubs filled with woodchips.
Another advantage is that, unlike mushroom grow bagsmonotubs are re-usable, so there is less waste. A monotub is basically a large, plastic tub with air-holes in it. What follows is a basic guide for building a monotub. There are many possible variations on monotub construction. This version is workable and simple, but growers should feel free to improvise. Paint only the outside of the tub, and only the lower half—the tub will be filled with substrate up to the paint line, and the purpose of the paint is to keep light from shining on the substrate except on the top.
Without the paint, the fungi will sense the light coming through the sides and will try to make mushrooms up against the tub walls beneath the substrate surface. Painting the tub keeps the fungus from getting confused about where to make mushrooms. Some set-ups include fans to increase air exchange, but the holes should be adequate. The rule of thumb is one hole per eight inches of length, meaning a three-foot-long tub needs.
Remember to put the holes above the paint line only! Each hole should be two inches across. They can be drilled with a power-drill using a hole-saw attachment, or cut by hand using a pair of scissors or gardening snips.
Make sure your holes are above where your substrate will be. The whole reason to use a fruiting chamber rather than an open tub is to prevent spores from other fungi coming in and contaminating the substrate. Such contaminants are essentially weeds, and just as in gardening for plants, weeds are a problem because they compete with the crop for resources.
Plus, if the weed fruits and its mushrooms happen to resemble the crop, they might be harvested by mistake—a serious problem if the weed is toxic! Weeds must simply be excluded from the beginning, which is why the inside of the fruiting chamber and the substrate must be sterilized before use.
What is your monotub fruiting strategy?
So, how to keep weed spores from coming in through the air-holes? Some sort of microfilter is necessary, and one of the simplest options is to just stuff some poly-fill in each hole.
It admits air but not spores. Use heavy-duty tape to keep the fill in place. Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Not only will get you a free field guide but you will get exclusive access to ground breaking studies, and discounts.
Materials Needed: One large, clear plastic tub with a lid. The kind made by Sterilite. Black spray paint suitable for use on plastic. A heavy-duty pair of scissors or gardening snips OR a drill with a two-inch hole saw bit. Poly-fill or equivalent. Duct tape or other heavy-duty tape. Step 1: Assemble the Materials.
Step 2. Paint the Lower Half of the Tub Black Paint only the outside of the tub, and only the lower half—the tub will be filled with substrate up to the paint line, and the purpose of the paint is to keep light from shining on the substrate except on the top. The rule of thumb is one hole per eight inches of length, meaning a three-foot-long tub needs four or five holes in each long side, plus at least one hole on each short side.Log in or Sign up.
Hip Forums. I should probably start by introducing myself. My name is Unnamed for this forum it is anyways. I do have another identity but will use Unnamed here instead of my other. I never had a passion in my life until I started growing ethnogens.
How to grow 3/4 LB of Magic Mushrooms in under 3 months
I started growing mushrooms and finally found a passion in my life. On how to properly grow a large amount of mushies easily. I do provide spore prints and syringes to several large spore companies.
This will also be a fairly involved crash course on growing Magic Mushrooms. I see some old outdated information on Cubensis mushrooms and thought I would help this community out with some newer methods. Construction of a glove box 2. Lids 3. How to prepare a Monotub and pasteurize your coir substrate This is still my tek but it was written out for another forum.
I just edited to fit with the other information I am providing. You are going to curse trichoderma and other sorts of contams if you do this long enough. One safeguard we use to have nice clean healthy jars is the use of a GB Glove box. There are millions of particles of nastiness all thru out the air just waiting to contaminate your jars and make them all sorts of funky colours.
The principal behind a GB is that there is no moving air in in and all the mold and bacteria particles have settled on the ground.
You are now working in an area that is virtually contam free. A GB is very easy to construct. Go out and get a rubbermaid tote a clear one is better so you can see thru but you can use a coloured one and cut a hole in the top and cover with saran wrap. Cut 2 holes in the sides of your GB big enough that you can stick your hand thru and that is pretty much it. To prepare your GB for use spray it with soapy water, bleach:water or lysol. Wait 5 minutes and goto work. If using lysol wait at least 10 minutes.
You dont want to spark your lighter and blow yourself up. Your lids should look like this. Except for one thing I used tyvek for both sides.
Since these lids pictured here I only tyvek one side. The other material on lids pictured here is synthetic filter material designed for mycology. Tyvek works fine and is free for americans at their post office. Now to inoculate your cakes or jars you are going to need a source of inoculation.
I am going to go into 2 different methods of inoculation.Mushrooms do not use light in the same way that plants do for photosynthesis ; rather, light is a signal that tells the fungus to start its fruiting stage. In nature, light would tell the fungus that it has reached the outside of a dung pile and that where the light hits it is a good place to create a fruit body.
Most types of light source will work. Indirect sunlight and florescent bulbs temperature k both work. When using indirect sunlight, care must be taken to rotate the chamber so all sides get even amount of sunlight, or fruiting will occur more heavily on the sunlit side, thus reducing yield. When using artificial light, a common approach to simulate day and night is to use a simple outlet timer on a 12 hours on and 12 hours off schedule.
Some cultivators prefer to leave their lights on for 24 hours a day and find that this produces satisfactory results. There is debate as to whether any darkness is needed at all for successful fruiting, however it is not debated that at least 1 or 2 hours of light is needed per day.
The sides of the fruiting chamber should have some method of blocking light from the bottom of the substrate to about three inches above it on the side of the chamber. If this is not done, side pinning and bottom pinning will occur. This is undesirable as it can produce a fruit body that is stunted, as well as bottom and side fruit are often not seen, and allowed to mature, die and rot on the substrate allowing a potent vector for contamination.
Lower levels of CO2 are also a signal for the mycelium to create fruit bodies. Again, in nature when the mycelium reaches the outside of the dung pile, there is much more fresh air than inside the pile.
The more clean fresh air you can get into your fruiting chamber the better, so long as you are able to keep the proper level of humidity. Also, some contaminants thrive in stale air with high CO2 levels, so FAE is also important for avoiding conditions favorable to some molds and bacteria.
Depending on the type of fruiting chamber used, there are various ways to achieve optimum FAE. Some cultivators use a fish tank air pump on a digital timer to supply fresh air every other hour or so.
Others simply open up the lid and fan with a magazine, but in a dirty grow room, this approach would increase risk of contamination. Some fruiting chambers are outfitted with cool mist or sonic humidifiers in order to provide both FAE and higher relative humidity. The humidity with a fruiting chamber must remain high in order to encourage pinning and to all the growing mycelium to retain as much water as it can hold.
A hygrometer can be used to measure RH, but many experienced cultivators can gauge relative humidity by examining water condensation on the walls of the fruiting chamber.Shroom Supply specializes in mushroom growing supplies, mycology tools, mushroom grow kits, and lab equipment. We put a special emphasis on quality products and customer satisfaction.
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